Change that old look for a new one

My sister is a teacher but the dress she showed me was just too, too old teacher. the waist hung too low and emphasized her stomach, the neckline made her face rounder and the color did nothing for her.

So time to take some steps, I did a couple of pins first to see what I needed to do to the waist. I measured up 3 inches from the skirt seam then folded it in 1 inch.

I liked the idea it took the emphasize off the stomach and the band looked more like a belt or sash giving the dress more definition. The dress was light green so I added some purple dye figuring to get more of a brown tint instead it came out more of a taupe but the color of the flowers showed nicely and color went with her skin.

After sewing the waist it was time to do something with the neck. I did not want to lower it too much remember teacher so instead I tried a teardrop keyhole. Then lined the edges with a purplish rhinestone.

I added a slit to the sleeve to update the top and overall I think it came out well.

Old denim jacket to crop teen jacket

We do love to reuse clothes because lets face it we are all on a budget. The Jean jacket was an old one that belonged to my mother but did not fit anyone except for my niece so I decided to modernize it a little.

 I cut the jacket measuring from the underarm down to just under the bust. I held on to the bottom to use later for a purse. I wanted to dress it up and personalize it for my niece.

I cut a pattern from paper and used hot fix rhinestones to add touches to the collar then I needed to do the back.

I printed the picture I wanted then cut it into a stencil and pinned to the jacket this acted as my outline. I then filled different areas with colored rhinestones like the eyes and the collar. I wanted subtle so only did a thin outline with 3mm rhinestones.

As you can it is cute on her and I will probably add more rhinestones to the pockets to dress it up. The undershirt is actually a skirt that I was planning to turn into a tank but with the zipper in back it fits perfectly and goes so well with the jacket and tights.

Customizing bras

Like most women I hate bra shopping and have actually taken to wearing sport bras because I am lazy and hate having a bra that digs into the shoulder, too tight, too close in the middle, the straps falling and finding one that looks pretty. So I have been thinking about make ones from scratch or maybe a corset but that is for later, what I am doing right now is customizing bras we can can find. the size of the bra is not really that important what is important is that he cup fits well. The bras I am using are 42D while my sister is more of a 50D. Try finding one that size that is not an arm and a leg and that does not look like something from the 50's is difficult if not impossible.

First step is to separate the bras from the front. Everybody is different the best way to determine size is to measure the space while either wearing a good bra or after cutting the bra hold the pieces up to your breasts fitting comfortably and then have some one measure at the top of the cup. You will need to decide at this point if you wan the clasps in front or back. For myself and my sister it is just easier to have it in front instead of playing contortionist. Then cut the clasps from the back just past seam where the clasps are sewed to the bra. You will have to do this whether you put clasps in back or front. Detach the back strap where it meets the bra remember since you are making the back bigger you will have to move the strap in. At this point the bra should like the one below.

I have found a lot of use for the satin bindings that are used for edging blankets in this case I used a nice beige. 

if doing the clasp in the front cut 2 pieces of the satin 3 inch long. Open the satin piece and fold one edge in twice 1/4" (this will prevent any fraying remember that this part will be handled often) then sew them to each edge of the clasps wrapping around. One thing to remember is that one line of  hooks and eyes so pull the remainder you should now have pieces that look like this.

In this case the cups fit best at 3 inches apart at the top. Remember that they must be wider apart at the bottom. If you make this center straight the clasps will unhook the first time you move your shoulders as I found out the first time I did this. I tacked it by hand first then used the zipper foot to sew close to the under-wire.

If you are putting the clasp in the back then cut the satin twice as long as you need then leave it folded in half and sew shut. Again remember the bottom needs to be wider then the top when you finish. A good rule of thumb would be an 1" to 1 1/2" inches difference. In this case I used an 1 inch. remember that the final goal is for the center to be flat to the chest if it is not then shorten or lengthen as needed.

I took a tight chest measurement right under the bust then took off 1 inch the reason for this is that the sides are elastic and I wanted a snug fit. I then cut a piece 13 inches long and sewed it with open fold facing up. The reason for this is so that I could insert the strap into the fold then sewed the fold shut. This prevents the end of the strap rubbing into the skin. It will have to be tried on to mark the straps I did not want a T-strap look but I hate having the shoulder strap fall down when it is too close to the side. If you are putting the clasp in back you would cut the ribbon in half  then attach the cutoff clasps to the end. You are merely extending the sides.

You now have a comfortable bra with little expense. You can use any bra so long as the cups fit which opens a lot of possibility and means you can pick up the more common sizes like 40D when you really wear a 50D.

Hard times

It has been a long time since I posted things were just getting to hectic. my mothers condition worsened and we lost her at the end of November. She was the glue that held the family together and will be sorely missed. She has passed the role of matriarch to my sister who I think will do a wonderful job. I have several different things to post and we are currently trying to get things to together to maybe sell some crafts and refashion on Etsy or the outdoor market. So I hope to get back on track. My sewing workroom is finally finished and looks good. I work a lot slower then I used to but it is nice to be useful again.